No Reservations Season 6 Episode 8: Provence
Tony opens the episode talking about the beauty of Provence. He says Provence is “where great painters painted and great chefs cooked”. Tony waxes on to the viewers how he talked his producers into letting him and the crew stay for a week at a villa with a beautiful garden and pool while filming the episode. Tony tells the viewers he made the mistake of inviting friends and locals over so he could cook dinner at the end of the week and realizing what he has done, he panics. Shots of Tony fumbling with the French stove and unable to find cooking utensils in the villa’s kitchen tells you he has good reason to be nervous.
The next shot has Tony narrating about the Romans and the history of Provence. Tony tells the viewers “don’t let the terrain like Martha Stewart’s head fool you, this is a poor country”. Anne Daguin, sister of Tony’s friend in New York, visits with Tony as Jeanne Bayol’s mother makes aioli for Tony and the crew. The aioli is made in a mortar and pestle, rising up into a frothy mound of garlic and olive oil as it is prepared. The meal is simple yet delicous: carrots, potatoes, green beans, fennel, cod with the aioli and wine. Tony states its time for a nap and crashes in a covered cart in the garden.
The next morning is Sunday and Tony meets Cedric, a relative of Anne’s, for a traditional morning gathering at Bar du Marche of local men to eat cheese, sausages, bread and drink wine. Tony and Cedric stopped beforehand to pick up meat and cheese for the meal, but it is obvious they need much more than they brought to feed this hungry crowd. The men enjoy eating and drinking together but the one rule is, no women allowed. After a few of the men’s wives drive by signaling them to come home, the group breaks up after singing, toasting and drinking one more time, leaving Tony to sit drinking and snacking at Bar’s sidewalk cafe while watching the world of St. Remy go by.
After a nap, Tony meets up with Cedric at Anne’s house. Family and friends gather to snack on tapenade, bread and wine in the shade of grapevines. A terrine of pork and chard arrives on the table to Tony’s delight. A digestive is offered, a typical part of the meal. Tony, Anne and her family visit Quartier La Galine for garlicky food, cheese and blue skies. The meal includes cured ham with melon, a choice of bass or steak and wine.
After a meal, the locals meet for a competitive game of petanque, similar to the game bocce ball. Tony joins in the game only to be badly beaten in a short game then left to stand alone as the locals walk away. Anne told Tony the locals are very serious about petanque and she wasn’t kidding. Tony laughs and tells the viewers his defeat was “the fastest ass-kicking in ass-kicking history”.
Next Tony visits the famous winery Domaine de Val Joanis in Rhone Valley. The winery owner tells Tony the rocky ground makes the vines work harder and produces better wine. Tony tells the winery owner he noticed the herbs and tomatoes are more intensely flavored here. Tony is given a tour of the winery by the owner, then shares wine and a lunch with the winery owners, feasting on tomato flan, benti fish with rosemary and potatoes, and finishing the meal with a cheese course.
Tony prepares for his dinner by asking Anne for advice on what to cook for her and her family. Anne advises him to stay away from eggplant, tapenade and aioli, avoiding any classic foods of Provence. That has to be tough advice for Tony, who is a trained French chef. Tony shops for fresh foods in the market, gathering good olive oil, fresh tomatoes, cheeses and rosemary. For dessert, Tony visits Anne’s pastry shop Le Petit Duc. Anne and Hermann Van Beeck create all types of sweets here. Anne suggests Tony make some marzipan for his meal. Tony awkwardly manages to make the marizpan with coaching from Anne.
It is the evening of the big dinner and Tony is fumbling around with the stove and cookware as he gets ready for the meal. Tony tells the viewers “the knives are as sharp as a Leno monologue” (sarcastically meaning not sharp). Tony’s menu includes crouton with tomatoes and sardines; radishes with butter and salt; an heirloom tomato salad; spaghetti with olive oil; roast leg of lamb with sauce of olives, tomato and lamb stock, and ratatouille; the finish of the meal is a cheese course. Anne and the family tell Tony the food is delicious but Anne gently tells Tony that his version of ratatouille is not what they serve in Provence. All in all Tony thinks he did well for his meal and is pleased. Tony has become enamored of Provence’s simple lifestyle, culture and cuisine. As the camera glides over the beautiful Provence countryside Tony talks again of the simple life, saying “it’s the little things that captivate here”.
